- #UNIBOX SUBWOOFER HOW TO#
- #UNIBOX SUBWOOFER DRIVERS#
- #UNIBOX SUBWOOFER DRIVER#
- #UNIBOX SUBWOOFER FREE#
Stop thinking you can compose a 9th Symphony if you are just learning how to read music.Ħ. THESE WILL NOT BE THE BEST SPEAKERS YOU HAVE EVER BUILT. Boxes with proper right angles are hard enough to build. It is cheap, has relatively good damping properties, and you can veneer it with anything you want for a surface finish. There is a reason so many people build with MDF. You will not be feeding these things insane amounts of power to keep up with small mains playing back for fidelity and not SPL. You do not need very long excursion to keep up with your mains.įor ease of use and setup, I recommend a plate amplifier, one for each box, or one for each driver. Peerless have a very good reputation, XLS or above.
#UNIBOX SUBWOOFER DRIVERS#
Whatever locally available drivers will compare favorably to the Dayton Reference HF 10" or 12" subwoofers (they have Al cones, too).
#UNIBOX SUBWOOFER DRIVER#
Push Pull means a driver basket and magnet are out in the room, not in the box. You are mainly worrying about minutiae above. Thank you all in advance for any and all responses. I'm also posting the same on AVS and HTS - any other forums for good DIY help? I can consider Peerless drivers (made in India - but its not easy to get them locally) - but not sure how low they extend - any other brands I'd have to keep in mind any components imported from outside India will incur an additional 70% in shipping duty and taxes. Location: I'm based in Bangalore, India and have access to a carpenter, metal worker, electronics assistant and may also able to get the speakers tested or measured at a lab in a research institute near-by. Although this is the least of the concerns - if possible I'd like to keep it around $2200 for the pair (based on US prices of components, before shipping, taxes and customs).ħ. Budget: What should the budget be to achieve the above goals. Power source and what are all the other components I will need to accomplish the above?Ħ. If its Alumin or GRP, I'm considering a cylindrical shape with the top and bottom rounded out (much like a medicine capsule). I also have the option of GRP (figerglass) or aluminum for cabinet - would this be worth exploring and offer any performance or fidelity advantages? Would Hard-wood cabinet (instead of MDF) offer any advantages over MDF? What is the minimum power I will need for a 10" or 12" sealed dual based on amp type and driver size? Are the features for high-pass/low-pass Filters and inputs and driver overload protection and power-on mute circuitry built into the Amp? Which brand? suitable for the recommended driver and cabinet type. Which amp type is better Class A/B or Class D? What about Scanspeak, Seas and Peerless and any others? No need for expensive tools, just glue, clamps, a drill, some paint.ĭual Opposed 10" cabinet would be good for your needs, and fit the WAF. One recommendation I have received so far (Thanks Maxmercy) I'm thinking restricting myself to Aluminum cones - any advice?Ĭan you guys suggest if I should go with 12” or 10”? Focus again is fidelity and not loudness.Ĭan you folks recommend the best brands and makes with very long excursion 10" or 12" drives Need recommendations/guidance on the following:Ĭonsidering Sealed dual push-pull cabinet due to ease of design and build. Detachable power cord with 220V/50Hz input and Power surge protectionġ0. Outputs: 1 x XLR, RCA (for LFE loop out), 1 x XLR, RCA with high-pass to connect the Left/Right mainsĨ. Inputs: 1 x XLR, RCA for LFE (with low-pass set at 120Hz), 1 x XLR, RCA for Left/Right input (with low-pass set at 85Hz)Ħ.
#UNIBOX SUBWOOFER FREE#
10" or 12" - dual opposed drives - for vibration/rattle free bass.ĥ. The mains have a 6.5" (90W) woofer and the sub need only be big/powerful enough to complement it - therefore I'm thinking no more than 10"(400W) or 12" (800W).ģ. Performance: looking to get equal or better fidelity and performance comparable to the Genelec subs 7060 (19Hz, 10" driver with 120Wamp) and 7070 (19Hz, 12" with 250W amp). Building a High-fidelity, clean, distortion, rattle free and musical sub is the most important goal - not earth shattering bass, loudness or SPL.Ģ. as the sub will be used mainly for music and should unobtrusively extend the range of the mains I plan to get (Genelec G Four / 8040).ġ. The goal being to build the cleanest, high-fidelity sub possible in DIY. This new thread is just to seek a wider audience for guidance. Some of you may have already responded to my other thread.and Thanks to all your advice I've now decided to embark on a (very ambitous for newbie) DIY subwoofer project.
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